The Pacific Side Of Baja
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What’s the best way to get from San Diego
to Cabo? An experienced cruiser once
gave me this advice: “It’s simple. Just keep the dirt on
your left.” That’s true, of course, but a little more
information might make the voyage a lot more fun. If
you have cruised in Mexico before, be prepared for
some big—and positive—changes. (I have made this
trip five times over the last 30 years; my wife, Judy, and
I have made this run twice since we began cruising full
time in 1996.)
Many stories and at least one short book have been
written about the dreaded Baja Bash, the potentially
arduous trek up the Pacific Coast of Baja from Cabo
San Lucas, Mexico, to San Diego (see PMM Aug. ’01).
However, the southbound voyage (southeast, actually)
is rarely that grueling. In fact, it’s usually an easy
down-swell run. This can be an extraordinary journey
with very few weather-related concerns: a safe and
pleasant adventure.
The Baja Peninsula has been accurately described as
a rugged, desolate, and primitive land mass. It has very
few amenities for cruisers, but it’s still an easy voyage for most ocean motorboats. The reason for this
apparent contradiction is the prevailing northwesterly
winds and ocean swells. If you are caught in bad
weather, your southeast course is generally downwind.
And, depending on where you are along the coast, you
are probably not far from a protected anchorage.
In addition to the prevailing weather patterns that
make this an ideal voyage, Mexico has recently eased
the administrative procedures for entering and
traveling within the country. These changes make it
much simpler than it used to be to process into the
country at selected locations, and it is now far more
convenient to travel from port to port once you have
entered the country (more on that later).
THE BEST TIME TO LEAVE
For most cruisers, the voyage south typically begins
in early November, just after the end of the eastern
Pacific hurricane season. November, December, and
early January offer the best weather window for this
cruise, as the pattern of winter storms and the strong
northwesterly winds will not have fully developed.
A word of caution is in order: If a low-pressure
system is forming anywhere along the Mexican
coastline in early November (a rare event, but it can
happen), it may be wise to delay your departure for a
week or so. Powerful southerly winds generated by an
offshore low-pressure system would expose most of the
Pacific anchorages to strong winds and high surf. If a
delay is necessary, acceptable anchorages and transient
slips are nearly always available in San Diego Harbor or
across the border in Ensenada, Mexico. As with any
cruise, be sure to check the weather before heading out.
RECENT CHANGES
After departing from San Diego, consider Ensenada
as your first stop when entering Mexico. It’s a wellprotected
harbor with adequate space for anchoring
and two full-service marinas. It’s only 60 miles south of
the border, and, like most Mexican ports, it has a
cruiser-friendly reputation. It’s not mandatory to check
into the country at Ensenada. One can legally bypass
Ensenada and head directly to Cabo, La Paz, or even
Mazatlan, but Ensenada has a lot to offer a first-time
visitor. (See the sidebar on arrival procedures for a list
of documents that may be required to enter Mexico.)
Ensenada is one of the few ports in Mexico that has
a single check-in facility, known as Ventanilla Única
(which means “one window” or location). This new
facility, which opened in fall 2005, allows a cruiser to
complete the entire first port check-in procedure at
one time and in one building. It took us about an hour
and a half to simultaneously check in and check out at
the Ventanilla Única building. At almost any other
port, it usually takes the better part of a day to
complete this paperwork merry-go-round.
The new facility in Ensenada is easy to find; you
can ask almost anyone for directions to the Capitanías
Oficina (the port captain’s office). Ventanilla Única is
next door, and it’s an easy walk from the main harbor.
The building contains offices of all the government
agencies that one must visit to process into the
country. However, and this is a big change, also
present is a representative from one of the local
banks who can accept and process your credit card
to pay your entry fees. Most federal agencies cannot
accept your cash or credit cards; payments to the government are made directly to the bank.
If your first port of entry is not Ensenada, you are
likely to make at least three (sometimes four or five) trips
to different government offices to clear into the
country. These mandatory stops include immigration,
customs, the port captain’s office, the pesca office (for
your fishing license), API (the local port authority, if
anchored out), and finally, a trip to a local bank to pay
your entry fees. Bring cash; the banks generally won’t
accept plastic as payment for tourist permits, boat
permits, or fishing licenses. (Most banks, however,
have ATMs.) Once the fees have been paid, you must
return to each office and show proof of payment
before you can pick up your check-in documents.
These government offices are typically scattered all
over the city, sometimes miles apart, so bring a map
and walking shoes. You’ll need them. You have to do
this only once to appreciate how much easier the
check-in is at Ensenada, where all of these functions
are grouped together under one roof.
(If you are entering Mexico for the first time from the
Caribbean, avoid checking in at Isla Mujueres. Because of
banking issues, the port captain requires an agent to
complete the process at a cost of approximately $200.
Instead, check in at Cancun; no agent is required, and
Cancun is only a short distance away.)
ATTIRE
A few cruisers have complained about having
problems with government officials when processing in.
Sometimes this can be attributed to being dressed a bit
too casually. We usually dust off our best cruising attire
when dealing with officials: no sandals, no flip-flops, no
tank tops, no shorts (you get the idea). A smile, a friendly
attitude, and a little bit of Spanish—even my poor
Spanish—usually helps.
We have several cruising friends who don’t speak a
word of Spanish. Speaking the language is certainly not a
requirement to cruise, but the more Spanish you speak
and understand, the easier life is in Latin America. I can
speak a limited amount of Spanish, but I have difficulty
understanding the spoken word. Judy, however, doesn’t
speak much Spanish, but seems to understand it much
better than I do. Together, we have some unusual
conversations with the locals. They must think we are
quite strange, but at the end of our discussions, everyone
seems to walk away with a smile.
CHECK-IN BY RADIO
There is one more change for cruisers heading to
Mexico, and it’s even bigger and better than the singlebuilding
check-in facility. Except for your first port of entry, it’s no longer necessary to physically check in and
check out with each new port captain.
Under the old system, most of the steps described
above had to be repeated at every new harbor that had a
port captain’s office. A cruiser stopping at Cabo San
Lucas and again at La Paz, a distance of only 100 miles,
had to check in and check out of each port and pay port fees for both locations. Traveling from harbor to harbor
became so burdensome and expensive that some cruisers
stopped visiting Mexico. This unofficial boycott may
have influenced the Mexican government’s decision to
change the unnecessarily complicated regulations.
Cruisers are now no longer required to physically
appear at the port captain’s office or to contact the
customs or immigration offices. The new check-in and
check-out process only requires that cruisers notify the
port captain’s office of their arrival and departure. The
best part of the new regulation is that this can be
accomplished in person, by radio (Channel 16 on the
VHF), or through the marina office if you are staying at
a marina. So it’s no longer necessary to walk all over the
city to check in or check out at each new harbor! This is a huge and long overdue change that has been greatly
appreciated by foreign cruisers.
We have used the new system a half dozen times
while traveling between harbors, and it works well. We
have had no administrative problems going from port to
port, and it’s no longer necessary to pay entry fees at
each new port. If you encounter a port captain who
chooses to ignore the new law, a quick phone call to
Tere Grossman may solve the problem. Tere, who
operates Marina San Carlos and who was a driving force
in changing the law, may be able to contact officials in
Mexico City who can resolve the issue. Tere can be
reached by email at grossman@marinasancarlos.com.
When leaving Mexico for another country, it’s still
necessary to physically check out with the port captain and to obtain the necessary crew list and zarpé that may
be required by the next country you are planning to visit.
A zarpé is a document that shows that you have
properly checked out of the country you just left. If
you are returning to the United States, a zarpé is not
necessary. Our first cruise took us to Central America
(Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa
Rica, and Panama), where we learned the importance
of insisting that each immigration office stamp your
passport with an exit stamp. We met several cruisers
who had to return to a country because that country
had failed to use an exit stamp.
ENSENADA: MORE REASONS TO STOP
Two more good reasons to make Ensenada your
first stop in Mexico are the low cost of diesel and the
availability of slips at a reasonable cost. When we left
the States in November 2005, diesel in San Diego was
$3.85 a gallon. Diesel in Ensenada was selling for $2 a
gallon (gasoline was about $2.35 a gallon). Diesel was a
little more expensive in Cabo and La Paz, around
$2.10, but still inexpensive.
We spent over a year in one of the marinas in
Ensenada while having our boat, a 55-foot Hatteras
motoryacht, painted. (See “Mexican Makeover,” PMM
March ’06.) Slip fees at the marina were about $550 a
month. We are currently paying $522 for a slip in San
Carlos, Sonora; if we paid slip fees for one year in
advance, we could reduce that to about $475. Fees in La
Paz are around $850; slips in Cabo San Lucas are much
higher and difficult to obtain. La Paz and Ensenada have
an abundance of slips. It’s a little tighter in San Carlos,
but a spot can usually be found for a cruiser or a full-time
customer. A new marina in Guaymas, 12 miles south of
San Carlos, is scheduled to open in May 2007.
Ensenada is also an excellent location for provisioning.
There are over a half dozen large supermarkets
(supermercados) in Ensenada and one brand-new Costco.
Nearly all of these stores provide a good selection of
locally produced items and a surprising number of U.S.
foods. Many of the labels found on the shelves are
familiar to most gringos, but PMM Contributing Editor
Lori Ross might find the quality of their fresh products
disappointing. A thick, tender rib eye is hard to find, and
poultry and vegetables are not always fresh.
In November 2005, Mexico was prohibiting the
importation of U.S. beef, pork, and poultry. The
prohibition, however, was not universally applied.
Officials in Ensenada ignored the ban, while inspectors at
Cabo San Lucas were boarding arriving boats and
confiscating U.S. meat and poultry. To avoid losing fresh
meats to local officials, you may want to stock up in Ensenada. The rules regarding the importation of U.S.
foods change from time to time; unfortunately, it’s
difficult to obtain an accurate list of prohibited items
from the Mexican government. Interestingly, we’ve had
the same problem getting similar information from U.S.
customs officials.
Now that you have checked into Mexico, topped off
the tanks with clean and inexpensive fuel, and stocked
the larder, it’s almost time to head south.
CHART REVIEW
Before plotting that course, take a good, hard look at
your charts. Do you have everything you need? If you’re
missing a specific chart (paper or electronic), it’s unlikely
that you’ll find it south of the border. You may be able to
borrow and copy a paper chart from another cruiser, but
finding a copy machine that is capable of making chartsized
copies can be nearly impossible. Stock up in the
States, especially if you rely on electronic charts.
The paper charts covering the Pacific side of Baja and
the Mexican mainland are generally reliable; charts for
the Sea of Cortez, however, can be seriously inaccurate.
For example, the chart covering Conception Bay, which
is within the sea, is off by as much as a mile. Deep water,
as indicated on chart 21161, is actually quite shallow at
several locations and hazardous to navigate. The area
was originally surveyed in 1873 and last updated in 1942.
There is no government agency in Mexico that is
responsible for updating charts. There are no published
advisories or official warnings about recent hazardous
conditions. We once ran aground at Puerto Madero in a
location within the harbor that was marked on our chart
guide as an anchorage but where we suspected the local
dredge was depositing sand.
During our most recent cruise, while preparing to drop
anchor at a remote Mexican anchorage, we saw birds
standing on the surface of water that should have been
20 feet deep. As the tide ebbed, an 80-foot shrimp boat,
sunk and lying on her side, slowly emerged. This obvious
hazard did not appear on any of our government charts
or on any of our commercially produced chart guides.
By the way, we have since learned that this particular
shrimper has been on the bottom for more than five
years. Abreojos is a Spanish word that loosely means
“open your eyes.” That’s a good word to remember when
entering any anchorage in Latin America. (The sunken
shrimper can be found in Bahia Salina, on Isla Carmen,
100 yards east of 25.59.540 degrees north, 111.07.500
degrees west.)
As we have indicated, the commercially produced
chart guides are not perfect, but they are generally
accurate. And within the Sea of Cortez, it’s likely they are more accurate than government charts. There are
three chart guides that we always keep at the helm when
navigating in Mexico: Charlie’s Charts of the Western Coast
of Mexico by Charles and Margo Woods; Boating Guide to
Mexico—West Coast Edition by Capts. John E. and Pat
Rains (now out of print, but the second addition of
Mexico Boating Guide came out in 2006); and volumes I,
II, and III of Jerry Cunningham’s Sea of Cortez Cruising
Guide, which covers most of the central and northern
areas of the sea. Each one contains valuable information
about hazards, anchorages, destinations, and facilities.
ANCHORAGES
While traveling down the peninsula, we anchor
almost every evening, as there are no marinas between
Ensenada and Cabo, and we prefer running the boat
during daylight. Fortunately, there are over 20
anchorages on the outside of the Baja Peninsula, and
most offer good protection from the prevailing
northwest winds and swells.
Many of these anchorages, especially in upper Baja,
are conveniently located about 50–60 miles apart, which is an easy one-day run for most trawlers. If you
pull your anchor at first light, you can usually arrive at
the next anchorage with plenty of daylight left to find
a good spot for the hook.
The last leg of the trip, from Bahia Santa Maria to
Cabo San Lucas, is about 170 miles; there are no
anchorages along this stretch of coastline, so a night
run is unavoidable.
FUEL
Other than Ensenada and Cabo San Lucas, there are
only two stops along the Pacific side of Baja where large
quantities of fuel can be obtained. Of the two, the best
source for fuel is Turtle Bay (also known as Bahia San
Bartolome), which is conveniently located about halfway
down the peninsula. Unfortunately, there is no floating
fuel dock inside this well-protected bay. The only facility
for taking on fuel is an old, wooden pier. To position
your boat for refueling, drop your anchor outside the
pier and then slowly back down, placing the stern as
close as is practical to the pilings. An attendant standing
on the pier will take your stern lines. When your vessel is secured, a hose is passed down, and refueling begins.
In the past, it’s been common practice for the
attendant to “forget” to reset the meter back to zero
before pumping fuel. This, of course, means that you
are being charged for fuel that you haven’t received.
Before you begin to pump fuel, it may be prudent to
station an assertive crew member on the pier next to
the meter to make sure it has been reset to zero.
Until this year, small quantities of fuel (100–200
gallons) could be delivered by skiff and pumped to
boats in the anchorage; however, this service was
recently discontinued. I have heard reports of cruisers
taking on contaminated fuel at Turtle Bay, but we have
never had a problem with the fuel there.
A secondary source for fuel is at the Port of San
Carlos, well inside Magdalena Bay, but only 170 miles
north of Cabo. I’m reluctant to recommend Puerto San
Carlos, because it’s a long journey (nearly 20 miles)
from the entrance of the bay to the fueling pier, and
the bay is quite shallow. The deep, zigzagging channel
leading to the port is marked, but it can be difficult to
follow. Fuel is usually pumped only at high tide
because the water around the pier is fairly shallow.
WEATHER REPORTS
I’m not especially good at forecasting the weather
based on detailed weather data.
I don’t feel comfortable making my own predictions
based on a weatherfax, virtual buoys, GRIB files, or
other raw data. Fortunately, there are several ways to
obtain weather predictions for the Pacific side of Baja
and Mexico without spending too much money on
specialized equipment.
If you speak and understand a little bit of Spanish,
the local port captain’s office will generally broadcast a
daily weather report over the VHF radio. Monitor
Channel 16, and wait for an announcement to switch
to a working channel for a short-term prediction. Keep
in mind, however, that these are short-range VHF
transmissions.
A high-frequency, single-sideband radio is another
excellent source for reliable and free weather reports.
These reports, in most cases, are actual predictions that
extend out as far as three or four days. These
predictions are broadcast over marine single-sideband
nets and ham radio nets. (See the weather sidebar for
frequencies and start-up times.)
The net forecasters are all amateurs, but that’s not a
pejorative; their forecasts are generally accurate and
reliable. Most of them rely on a variety of sources (GRIB files, satellite imagery, and NOAA weather
information) to construct their predictions. It’s a rare
day when one of them misses a big weather event.
If your vessel is equipped with a single-sideband radio,
Pactor modem, and PC or laptop, you can receive
limited weather data while at sea or at anchor. (You can
also send and receive limited email messages.) However,
you still need to process and understand the data, then
make your own prediction. Again, I prefer to have a
reliable forecaster tell me about the weather. If I have a
question, I can pick up the mike and ask for
clarification. (If you are listening to a ham radio net,
you must be properly licensed before you can
transmit.)
UNDER WAY
Some cruisers, especially if it’s their first extended
cruise, prefer to make the voyage down the Baja
Peninsula as quickly as possible, making only one or
two stops along the way. A few will actually make the run nonstop, believing there is not much to see
or do. Try to resist the urge to get to Cabo or the
Mexican mainland as soon as possible; you won’t be
disappointed. There is usually no reason to rush this
voyage. We typically take three to four weeks to
make the run south and have always regretted not
taking more time.
We do a lot of diving, fishing, hiking, and exploring
along the Pacific side of the peninsula. The water is
generally a bit cooler than in the tropics, so a wet suit
is necessary, but the sea life and pristine locations
make these islands excellent diving and fishing sites.
We frequently spend an entire day diving or
kayaking at many of the islands and a few of the more
interesting shoreside anchorages. Some of our favorite
spots are: Isla Todos Santos, which has limited space
for anchoring but great surfing at the north end; Isla
San Martin, a small volcanic island with an adequate
anchorage, good fishing, and an interesting island to
explore; Isla San Geronimo, where Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo anchored in 1542; Isla Guadalupe, 140
miles off the coast and 225 miles south of San
Diego, a desolate island that has great fishing for
yellowtail and large bluefin tuna but also has a
large population of white sharks (so we no longer
dive or kayak there); the anchorage at Turtle Bay,
which has flat water, fuel, and some fresh
provisions; Santa Maria and the adjacent
Magdalena Bay, a good spot to prepare for the
overnight run to Cabo (as previously mentioned,
fuel can be obtained inside Mag Bay at the pier);
and Isla San Benitos, our favorite anchorage.
ISLA SAN BENITOS
The San Benitos Islands deserve some special
attention. They are without question our favorite
anchorage, with great fishing, diving, kayaking,
and hiking, all at one location. They are not
especially remote (about 70 miles west of the
peninsula and 350 miles south of San Diego) but
are seldom visited by fellow cruisers. Don’t be
surprised if you have the entire anchorage to yourself.
The water at San Benitos is generally quite clear, and
the entire area is teeming with wildlife. Game fish such
as yellowtail and white sea bass are abundant and can be
legally taken by cruisers with a fishing license. Lobsters
and abalone seem to be hiding under every rock but
cannot be taken by foreigners.
We have seen blue whales, killer whales, and gray
whales swimming around the islands. The blue whales,
up to 100 feet in length, are rare and awe inspiring; we’ve
had a pair of them surface within a few feet of our boat.
There is a large elephant seal rookery at San Benitos.
These endangered mammals are not as rare as blue
whales, and we have consistently observed them in the
islands. We’ve seen bulls fighting on the beach for
mating rights, and pups calling for their mothers.
These huge mammals are easily approached while
asleep on shore, but it’s important not to disturb their
siesta, as a stampeding or frightened elephant seal
could easily crush a young pup or a careless cruiser. A
mature bull can weigh more than 4 tons and stand
close to 8 feet in a raised position.
White sharks are also found at the islands but are
not nearly as abundant as they are near Guadalupe
Island. Spend four or five days here if you can. You
won’t be disappointed.
A BATHTUB VOYAGE
A delivery captain once told me that you could
probably sail down the Pacific Coast of Baja in a
bathtub. I don’t know if I would care to try that, but
almost any well-maintained powerboat with a range of
600 miles shouldn’t have a problem with this voyage.
A friend of mine who is a commercial fisherman made
the trip in a 24-foot, gas-powered aluminum skiff.
Another friend made the trip in a twin-engine, gaspowered,
36-foot Chris Craft!
It’s an easy run, full of adventure but with little risk. If
you go at the right time, weather is not an issue, and the
paperwork merry-go-round has finally been stopped. Go!
Explore the Pacific side of Baja.
We think you’ll love it.
Reprinted with permission. Copyright 2007 © Dominion Enterprises (888.487.2953) www.passagemaker.com
You are reading the text-only copy of this article. To access the article as it appeared in PassageMaker Magazine, please log in to purchase and download the PDF version of this article.