Pleasant Interludes On The Way To The North Channel


Jacky Crawford
09 May 2007
Pleasant Interludes On The Way To The North Channel By Jacky Crawford Bent on cruising the North Channel—a small strip of water between Manitoulin Island and northern Ontario, Canada—my husband, Larry, and I sat out yet another windy day in port. A sad but inescapable conclusion­­­­­ was becoming apparent: we had to rethink our agenda. A late start from our homeport of Erieau, Ontario, (in early August instead of early July) did not give us time to get to Tobermory or the cruising grounds beyond before the September fogs appeared. Too many days of high winds had forced longer stays than we had expected, so now we had to go to Plan B: turn the trip into a vacation! Docked in the beautiful town of Kincardine, we were only halfway up the 200-mile trek to Tobermory. The very waves that halted us at this Lake Huron port gave the impression that we were looking out from a Caribbean Island. The water was an incredible azure-blue and the sand very white and rimmed by a small area of dunes. Definitely not our usual Great Lakes’ outlook! It is not surprising that most newcomers to this area have a hard time believing that the huge expanse of water in front of them is just a lake. It was surely worth a thorough perusal. Exploring Kincardine Leaving our 1980 32-foot Marine Trader , Just Us, gently swaying at her berth in the protected harbor, we set out for a sustaining lunch. We headed up the hill from the harbor and found a table at the crowded Erie Belle restaurant. An order of their famous fish and chips, washed down with some glasses of a very dark beer, was every bit as good as we had heard. Next it was off to the town’s main street to hit the small supermarket for supplies. I meandered back, checking out the numerous gift stores and stopping at the public library to check e-mail. Kincardine proved to have all the requisite supplies for the boater. However, what sets this town apart from others is the nightly tribute to its Scottish heritage. Six nights a week during the summer months, the “Phantom Piper” appears in the lighthouse at sunset and pipes the sun down. Not a particular fan of bagpipe music myself, I could not help but be moved by the haunting strains as they met wind and water. This beautiful tradition is performed in memory of a piper who played his pipes on shore to guide a boatload of lost settlers to land. On Saturday nights, the bagpipes combine with a full marching band in a parade down Main Street. Crowds line the road, and many follow the marchers on their route. An important part of the ritual is enjoying an ice cream afterward. I’m sure that both of the town’s ice cream shops are pleased at the long lines! Civic pride is obvious in this attractive town. There are flowers everywhere, but the ones we enjoyed the most rimmed the boardwalk around the harbor. Cruisers enter Kincardine Harbour thro...


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